Growing from Seed

As a gardener, the emergence of new life from soil is experienced personally. There is mystery for each individual to contemplate and manipulate, to determine the best way for your horticultural sense to shine. Observing the germination process and seeing life spring from a seemingly lifeless seed is an evolutionary miracle of the natural world. Below ground, the first emergence from a seed is the radicle, its embryonic root. It bolts quickly into the soil to anchor the seed, and the emerging, relatively heavier, cotyledon/s above. It also allows the plant to tap nutrients further away from the seed. Above ground, cotyledon/s, the first embryonic leaves to emerge from a seed, shoot skyward to lay the nutritional foundation for a new plant. They are a boon for survival above ground. At HandCrafted Horticulture we start seeds in seedling trays or containers. We will review the materials and steps for this process. As for seed selection, collection/purchase, storage and preparation, check out our section on this topic ("Seed Collection, Storage & Preparation" INSERT link here). We assume at this point that we are starting with viable seed that has already been prepared for planting.

Let's go over materials and tools required at the outset, soil being the most critical. Unlike every soil a plant will encounter after this, seedling starter soil is "sterile" and rudimentary. It usually has a water retention component, like coir, an aeration/drainage component, like perlite, pumice or sand, and smaller additions of earthworm castings, Azomite, mycorrhizal fungi and other nutrient amendments. As an aside, Azomite is an acronym for "A to Z Of Minerals Including Trace Elements" and is trademarked. This soil mix is extremely lightweight and airy, allowing germinating seeds to quickly penetrate and establish roots. It also has excellent drainage, which is vital to stave off problems. It is sterile in the sense--unless you bake it, which is an option--its components are notably free of pathogens that could harm tender beginnings. Fewer additions to the recipe means less likelihood of harmful agents being introduced, like gnats, fungi, bacteria, nematodes, and eggs or spores of many. This is why we don't use any kind of compost in seedling media. We have tried them with or without compost, and those without have significantly fewer issues, if any.

The components we use for seedling mix are generally known to be pathogen free, and are lighter, finer-grade particles than non-seedling mixes. For our HandCrafted Horticulture blend, we use the following proportions to make approximately 10 cups of seedling mix. Extrapolate to your desired volume: 

5 cups coir

4 c perlite

1/2 c sand

1/4 c earthworm castings

2 tbsp kelp meal (Down-to-Earth (DTE) brand)

2 tsp humic acids (DTE)

1/2 tsp Azomite (DTE)

1 tsp mycorrhizae & beneficial organisms (DTE, "Root Zone")

Mix well with homogenization throughout. A method to ensure even distribution when blending miniscule amounts like 1 tbsp/tsp or less is to put them in a small shakeable vessel, like an empty prescription bottle. Add 2-4 tbsp of your soil mix and shake Shake SHAKE until it is homogenized in appearance and texture. Repeat the process 2-4 times using increasingly larger vessels (like a mason jar or an empty coffee can) until you are shaking your entire volume together, up to no more than 1-2 gallons at a time. As a side note, we have eliminated peat moss as an addition to any of our soil mixes over the last few years. For our seedling mix, this meant upping the amount of coir and adding sand. Peat harvesting and use is not environmentally sustainable.

Seedling mix is one step in horticulture that vividly illustrates your role as garden creator, because you create the conditions for seeds to open and life to spring forth. Homogenous nutrient distribution is vital within seedling soil because initially a seed cannot reach beyond its immediate border. This even distribution principle is critical to ensure nutrients are proximate to a seed planted anywhere in the medium. Fortunately soon it will have roots to assist.

As a simpler option, Black Gold makes a fantastic seedling base which you can amend as above with earthworm castings, kelp meal, humic acids, Azomite and mycorrhizae. This base can also be amended with coir, perlite and sand, as needed for specific seed requirements. These mixes will provide enough nutrients and symbiotic bio-active organisms to boost a seedling's shot at success, particularly development of a solid root system. Mycorrhizal fungi and plants have a symbiotic relationship. The fungi assist with nutrient and water uptake for the plant. In return the plant provides sustenance to the fungi in the form of carbohydrates (sugars) and fats. We consider them a critical soil additive for plants of all ages. We use Down-to-Earth's "Root Zone" to add over 10 mycorrhizal fungi and over 10 beneficial bacteria and other helpful organisms to our mixes (INSERT Down-to-Earth link for "Root Zone").

In addition to external nutrient sources, the seed itself is powerful and primed for success. It is packed with nourishment to establish a plant's footing. After the appropriate moisture, temperature and light have activated germination, the cotyledon/s and radicle spring into action. Harmony in gardening at its best. The seedling will only be in this simple soil for a brief time after germination. Once it germinates, usually a couple days to a few weeks, its acclimation from protected seedling environment to immediate surroundings should begin. As soon as possible, transition from seedling trays to starter containers should proceed. With gardener and seed working together to achieve success, chances are excellent - a fantastic launch pad for a healthy plant!

Throughout this process, make certain your equipment and materials are clean, especially seedling trays used from past cycles. We use starter trays designed for seedlings, containing anywhere from 4-16 individual cells each. Each tray has three parts: a cell section, a container tray that holds this section, and a vented humidity dome. Going individually, gently place your seedling soil in each cell using an appropriately sized spoon (this process is discussed and illustrated with pictures on our Instagram post dated 1/14/23). It is critical the soil is not packed. Do not pour the bulk of it over the surface of the tray then spread it into the cells. This could result in failure of the entire tray since some areas toward the center will be packed tightly, preventing drainage and encouraging damping off (more on this problem later) or other issues. Also, this could cause the same seeds to germinate at different rates due to varying soil density. Keep it loose and airy in each cell to allow just the right balance of moisture retention and drainage. Once each cell is filled to the top, tap the tray gently to settle it. If any levels have changed, raise them so all are even. Then use a wine cork to gently press each cell completely around so the surface is smooth and even, but not compressed, usually just beneath the lip of the cell, 1/8-1/4". Do not pack the soil, just lightly, gently even it up. This technique you will develop over time.

Now we are ready to plant our seeds. All seeds have an optimal placement on or in soil for germination. It is usually indicated on the packaging. If not, it can easily be searched on the internet by genus species or common name. As well, many require light to germinate, so they are placed on the surface. In this case, place the seeds, and then sprinkle a tiny two-finger pinch of soil evenly above the cell. Do this by rubbing your fingers together over the cell. Not enough to prevent light from reaching the seeds, but enough to hold them in place for the final cork press and misting. For seeds that require planting at a certain depth, follow the package directions and place accordingly. You can use a toothpick, chop stick or similar small-pointed instrument to make holes, and tweezers to place seeds in them. As a rule, the hole should be twice as deep as the relative size of the seed. Place anywhere from 1-6 seeds per cell, depending on plant specifics, growth rate and cell size. More on this later. After all seeds are placed, use a wine cork to barely tamp the soil to an even surface as before. Make sure you are not accidentally picking up seed on the bottom of the cork and redistributing it! Some seeds are tiny. Get a feel for it. You can do this! At this point, use a mister bottle on its finest setting to gently spray the entire tray from above 2-3 times, then go cell by cell and slowly spray each 8-10 times, making sure that the force of your mist doesn't dislodge seeds or soil. The surface of the cell should be moist, and not beading, which dislodges seeds. Your spray should quickly be absorbed by the soil. Use pure water for this process with seedlings. We use RO/DI water with 0 TDS, but any distilled or purified water is better than tap water, rain water or any source that can contain harmful contaminants or additives, like chlorine, metals, antibiotics, bacteria, etc. Try not to introduce contaminants into these tiny ecosystems you create.

At this point, depending on the plants and their requirements, more or less humidity may be necessary for optimal conditions. Each tray has a clear top dome that allows light to pass through and hold mositure and heat within, preferably with a vent. Most seeds benefit from a humidity dome their first couple days, until germination. As well, most plants can manage better without the dome after germination. Daily misting with RO/DI water throughout the seedling period - just enough to keep the humidity elevated and soil damp but not soggy - is beneficial for many seedlings (note, this is a generality, some plants may require less moist conditions, so know specific plant requirements). Plants should be acclimated to life outside the dome as quickly as possible.

If you have multiple plant types in a single tray, ensure they all have the same basic environmental requirements. Also, it is preferable to plant each tray with seeds that germinate at roughly the same time, plus or minus a day or so. It is unnecessarily challenging to meet competing conditions in one tray. Planting seeds that require a temperature of 60 F with those preferring 75 F is an obvious mistake. Likewise, avoid planting seeds that germinate in 3 days with those that take 14 days. This also applies to humidity and lighting: same tray, same requirements.

Heat mats with thermostatic controllers are placed beneath trays that require warmer geminating temperatures, and set accordingly. Many plants like temperatures a little warmer during the day and cooler at night, so timers can be employed for control. In general for a majority of plants, germination ranges are between 80-85 F on the high side, and 55-60 F on the low end. So heat mats for some trays, cooler corners for others--all with good ventilation. There should be no areas in the nursery where air stagnates without circulation. Depending on the size of your setup, clippable desk fans might be all you need. After germination, trays should be removed from heat mats. Leaving them on heat for too long after germination can make them leggy, with longer punier stems.

We discuss lighting in great detail in "Pillar 4: Let There Be Light" (insert link here). For now, it is important to understand seedlings need 14-18 hours per day of optimal intensity lighting for best performance. This is more than most south-facing windows can provide, especially during the cooler, seed-starting months in late winter to early spring. Due to this, artificial lighting coverage for seedlings should be 14-18 hours a day, depending on individual plant requirements. This is simple and inexpensive to do with LED/bulb, fixture and timer options today. Another light consideration for seedlings is their optimal blue-green spectrum, the only time during the life of the plant this spectrum is best. It shifts blue-red to far-red as plants mature and age, especially during flowering and fruiting. Many high-efficiency LED bulbs are equipped with spectrum switches today. This option greatly assists the gardener meet plant lighting demands as they change. We will have a more detailed lighting discussion elsewhere. Providing optimal environmental conditions, including humidity, temperature and lighting, over any plant's life is the beating heart of long term gardening success.

Following the first few days of appropriate light, warmth and moisture, many seeds absorb enough water to burst open, radicle and cotyledons charging in opposite directions. The germination window can be broadly different, from one day to several weeks. This information should be listed on seed packages. Once germination has occurred though, acclimate them expeditiously to their surroundings outside the protective seedling dome.

________________________ 

Additional topics for this section: Benefits/drawbacks of growing from seed, gardener's timeline, experience, and dedication. Requirements and techniques for various plant types, specialty seeds. Other environmental controls and stabilizers, dehumidifiers, greenhouses; grow space parameters and capabilities. Creating and organizing a gardener journal, tray sheets, transplant records; maintaining a thread of documentation for each plant type grown.
Pulling everything together presented in this section, the other major Pillar sections can link from here.
 

Gardening can be whatever you want or need it to be. It is life-affirming, peaceful and unrelentingly kind. At HCH we believe its deepest appreciation appears when you grow something - anything - from seed. The entire process soothes the soul, and connects to Earth and our natural world with reverence. However, to be a gardener you do not need to grow anything from seed to experience wonder, wisdom and connection. Nurturing any life at whatever stage is therapy and medicine for you, your community and our world. Any path or role you choose is entirely up to you, and we are here to help you succeed.

In fall 2021, when our exhibit garden was originally planted ("Our Story" homepage link here), it was 99% seed-grown. The remainder, a handful of cuttings, making up less than 1%. Most of the plants were cultured from seed collected from gardens throughout San Francisco. Understanding some seed basics from a biological perspective will aid in field collection. As well, it will help determine the quality of any seeds received from other sources or vendors. The foundation of a healthy thriving garden rests with seeds and how you care for them. Ultimately, success depends on the quality of seeds you plant, or the quality of the seeds that grew into the plants you are planting.

In this section we will discuss how to collect, store and prepare seed from wild sources. We will also cover purchasing seeds from vendors. We highly recommend keeping a journal. As needed note observations you think might be helpful in the future. The next time a question arises you can refer to your knowledge. As well, if growing from seed, location/vendor data, germination rates, repotting dates and seedling growth should be noted. We discuss creating and organizing a journal in more detail here (link to journal page and examples in "Growing From Seed" section here). 

Now let's dive into some basic biology. Don't panic, this is not from a sciency perspective, and it greatly assists when identifying plants in the wild. Broadly speaking, there are two seed types in flowering plants, aka angiosperms: dicots, with two cotyledons, and monocots, with one cotyledon. Cotyledons are embryonic leaves within the seed containing nutrient stores to power germination. They also physically shield and protect the embryo as it germinates. They are the first leaf-like growth to appear, though they are not true leaves. However, though this cotyledon distinction will come in handy in the nursery, it is not evident or visible with adult plants in the field. Fortunately there are three other distinct morphological differences adult monocots and dicots exhibit. Also, as a side note, gymnosperms are the other major group of seed-producing plants. However they are not flowering plants like angiosperms, therefore they are not monocots or dicots. Their seeds do not have coatings or shells and are contained in and protected by cones, i.e. pinecones. Fertilization occurs without ovaries in open air on the scales of cones. Examples of gymnosperms are conifers, Ginkgo and cycads.

Back to angiosperms, our primary focus. For field collection, the three other easily identifiable characteristics distinguishing monocots and dicots are: (1) multiples of 3 vs multiples of 4 or 5 flower parts (loosely, petals), (2) parallel vs branching leaf veins, and a (3) taproot vs fibrous root system. A monocot flower will usually be arranged using 3 or 6 petals, or multiples of 3. A dicot flower will be arranged using 4 or 5 petals, or multiples of 4 or 5. This difference can be obvious, or it can be confusing because flower parts can fuse or have different morphologies. As well, petals on some flowers can be impossible to reliably count in the field. For instance, a sun "flower" can have hundreds or even thousands of petals, some fused. Though it may appear to be a single large flower, the sunflower head is actually packed with hundreds of individual flowers, each with only 5 petals, a dicot. If using petals is not apparent to distinguish monocots and dicots, this next characteristic will help.

A monocot has leaves with parallel veins, originating from the base of the leaf and running the entire length to the tip. They also tend to be long and thin. Grasses are a terrific example. Dicot veins originate from the leaf base too, but branch into net-like patterns throughout the leaf structure. Those patterns usually appear as pinnate with feather-like extensions from a central vein, or palmate where all main veins orginate from the leaf base, as with the palm of your hand and your fingers. Oaks (pinnate) and maples (palmate) are terrific examples of these dicot leaf variations. Other examples of monocots are palms, tulips, orchids, corn, alliums and lilies. Other examples of dicots are daisies, tomatoes, roses, salvias and geraniums. 

(Third characteristic, tap root vs fibrous root systems discussion INSERT HERE when ready)

Now, before we discuss collection in greater detail, there are two other broad seed categories to review: dry vs wet. These differences are unrelated to whether a plant is a monocot or dicot. Dry seeds come from flower heads that dry on the plant. The seeds mature as the flower and/or plant withers and dries for the season. Examples are snapdragons, sunflowers, salvias, roses, milkweed, corn, abutilon and columbines. Wet seeds come from the fruit of the plant. In this case, the seeds are surrounded by a wet biomass, usually fleshy or pulpy in texture. Fruits evolved to entice animals to eat them, thereby distributing them over wider areas further from the parent plant. Because the seeds are encased in this wet biomass, they must be dried before use or storage. Examples are tomatoes, fuchsias, passionflowers, pomegranates, melons, pears and berries. First we will go over dry seed collection.

When collecting dry seed, ensure the drying flower, known as a seed head/pod, remains on the plant as long as possible. This allows the plant to fortify the seed's reserves, working furiously during seed formation and development to boost the next generation's chance of survival. This may mean delaying deadheading (INSERT maintenance link here) for the few select plants/flowers you choose for collection, though you can tidy them up by removing dried petals and other peripheral flower parts. Choose flowers from the sturdiest plants with traits like color, scent or morphology that appeal to you. As well, choose from plants requiring the least maintenance, while best repelling pests like aphids, scales and mites, or fungal infections like powdery mildew or rust. Use such factors to evaluate seed potential for quality offspring. With experience you will discover what you prefer.

An important caveat to everything we just reviewed: you cannot know a seed will replicate its parent plant with certainty. That is, unless you know more about the plant's genetics, primarily whether it is a hybrid. A hybrid plant usually means its parents are different varieties, or species. In captivity, each parent plant could have been selected for its best traits, like color, height, etc, and intentionally cross-pollinated. Such cross-pollination can also happen in the wild, but it occurs randomly rather than by human manipulation. The key to remember is that if the parent plant is a hybrid, traits of its offspring will commonly revert to one of its parents. Thus the seeds may not replicate the plant you see. This is one of the fun parts of gardening for us, the not-knowing, and anticipation of what might be.

Non-hybrid plants and seeds usually stay true to the parent plant. In other words, they replicate the parent accurately in appearance and manner. These plants can freely cross pollinate, and generations of their offspring will have roughly the same appearance. This is what wide open fields provide for many wild and native plants. However, even if a plant is not a hybrid, it may not replicate the parent plant exactly. In an outdoor environment wind could blow another species/variety's pollen to a neighboring plant, or a pollinating insect could do the trick. In this way, a hybrid has been created naturally. Just because it's a hybrid does not mean man stirred the pot. Though, as a gardener you can purposefully cross-pollinate two varieties with traits you prefer. For further information on this process follow this link (INSERT hand cross-pollination link here).

Once you have determined which flowers you will collect seed from, monitor them for readiness. Research a species if you want to know its typical maturity cycle. For many plants, when the seed head and stem of the flower you selected for harvest appear dry, check other nearby stems/leaves for dryness. Snap one off, and if there is no green or moisture at the break, and the snap sounds dry, it's time to harvest the seed. At this point, carefully cut your target stem cleanly and quickly. Jerky movements can cause seed heads to open and/or release seeds. If you are concerned about this, place a container beneath to capture any loosened seeds. Some seed heads will pop open upon seed maturity, and potentially project seeds outward from the plant. For these, place a small paper or mesh bag over the seed head to capture the seeds because this may occur when you are not around.

With dry seed collection, proper preparation and storage equates to better germination rates. Once home, separate the seeds from any pods, flower heads or other extraneous plant parts. Lay them on a flat surface, such as a cookie sheet, lined with paper towels or cardboard. Leave at room temperature, out of sunlight or bright light, and away from moisture or humid conditions for 1-2 weeks. If seeds are not dry enough before storage, they could rot or mold, in which case they would be lost. The ideal moisture level for most stored seeds is 5-8%. Since we have no easy way of knowing when this moisture level is reached, following these guidelines will get you there without more advanced measurement techniques or equipment (one such technique is to place them in a jar along with a humidity sensor). After this, most seeds can be stored safely for 1-3 years in airtight containers kept at room temperature, roughly 60-70 degrees F, cooler being better than warmer. In all cases, the container should be labeled with date, location and plant id. When collecting seeds, use your phone to take a picture of the parent plant for reference. This is terrific because the date and location are embedded in the picture data. You can transfer this information to your seed containers and journal later.

Wet seed collecting means the seeds need to be separated from a moist/wet biomass and dried before storage. Essentially after separating the seeds from their wet encasement and drying them properly, storage procedures are the same as for dry seed discussed previously. With wet collection, what you collect from the plant is the fruit, and it can be large like watermelon or pineapple, or small like fuchsia berry or blueberry. Accordingly, consider your carrying capacity when collecting. Choose fruit that is ripest to just over-ripe. If fruit has recently fallen to the ground, choose among those. Basically, when possible you want the fruit to remain on the plant until it drops naturally. That way you ensure strong, mature seed. Immature seeds will not be viable, and if they do germinate the plant will likely be lackluster. Once home, if the fruit is not already over-ripe, meaning starting to get mushy and losing its springiness, let it remain at room temperature for a day or two. Once ready, cut the fruit and remove the seeds. You may not be able to completely remove bits of pulp from the seeds and that is ok. Clean them as best you can. Place the wet seeds on a fine screen, like a skillet screen, and place in an area with good circulation at room temperature. Monitor daily, continuing to remove extraneous fruit parts until only seeds remain. Once this process is complete, store as described above for dry seeds.

Additional topics for this section:

-GOES HERE / storyboard now
Healthy viable seeds are the foundation of gardening, and healthy seeds come from healthy plants, understand how to identify the sturdiest, pest & disease-free plants. 

Plants grown from seeds may not be true to parent, unlike cuttings. 

Annuals, perennials, biennials, shrubs, trees, vines, grasses. Vegetable, fruit, herbal or medicinal vs functional vs ornamental. Basic plant genetics. Hand pollination and hybridization. Wild collecting, selecting, sizing, timing, curing/stratification,
ordering from vendors, trusted vendors, regional specialized vendors, seed storage, preparation for planting, scarification, soaking (here)/

Soil provides structural support for everything above it, anchoring plants to Earth. Root systems mold themselves around varying pockets of soil density to push plant life vertically, beyond the soil surface. Plants can sink, usually to a barely noticeable degree, over time as they settle and as roots form a network of support. This is true whether they are in containers or in-ground. The difference is container plants are bound and supported more by the pot than the soil structure. Their lateral and vertical root growth are extremely limited. In-ground plantings are only bound by increasingly dense layers of substrate and eventually bedrock. Their lateral and vertical growth is comparatively unlimited.

Soil also functions as the medium conveying water and nutrients to roots. For this reason, it should be blended well and look homogenous. Nutrients should be easily accessible for roots no matter where they are placed in new soil. We discuss this in more detail in our "Growing from Seed" section (INSERT link here). As a gardener, your lessons become your techniques and methods. You learn everyday. Little things matter. Like ensuring soil is evenly mixed so plant roots can find nutrients anywhere immediately. A happy plant is a success story! Planting, transplanting, and repotting are perfect opportunities for a reset. Try a new soil mix if the plant was underperforming, or increase/decrease a nutrient ingredient, based on your observations. Most importantly, think like a plant. If you were a plant going through this process what would make your life easier? Go with that.

What goes into your soil is where you as gardener have the greatest impact on long-term success. At HandCrafted Horticulture we use 4 soil blends, other than specialty mixes for select plants, like orchids and other epiphytes or cacti and succulents. Our main workhorse mix is used when potting seedlings up into progressively larger containers, or when repotting most container plants. This blend uses one 60 quart (2 ft³) bag of Black Gold Organic Potting Soil as a base. We love Black Gold soil products (link Black Gold site). Their quality and breadth is excellent. This base usually has some variation of compost, bark, coir, and worm castings, depending on the time of year and where you live. To this we add:

4 quart (=16 cups) earthworm castings
2 qt perlite
8 qt compost
4 qt coir
1 qt vermiculite
3 cups HCH blend organic fertilizer (INSERT link to section Pillar 2: Nutrients; INSERT link Down-to-Earth (DTE) fertilizer page too) 

1 c Kelp meal (DTE)

1/2 c Alfalfa meal (DTE)

3 tbsp Azomite (DTE)

2 tbsp mycorrhizal fungi + (DTE "Root Zone")

We use a 31-gallon rectangular Rubbermaid container for mixing. Any similarly sized container would work. They come with a snap lid which allows for easy soil storage. Put roughly half the Black Gold Organic in the bottom of the bin, even it out and break up any clumps. Except for the mycorrhizae and Azomite, sprinkle half of all the amendments listed above (i.e. 2 qt earthworm castings, 1 qt perlite, etc) evenly over the surface. Ensuring every addition is spread evenly is important for homogeneous distribution of nutrients and organisms throughout the media. Prepare your mycorrhizae and Azomite, to a final volume of 4 cups using Black Gold Organic as the base. We discuss the method for introducing small amounts, like tablespoons, of amendments in "Grow from Seed" section (INSERT section link here). When ready, sprinkle 2 of the cups of mycorrhizae and Azomite evenly across the top layer. As a side note, we used to add peat moss to all our mixes. Over the past few years, we've eliminated it from our amendments. Peat use is not environmentally sustainable.

Now you are ready to mix. Visually divide the bin into 6 sections. Use your fingers, not hands, to move through the top 1-2" of dirt in each section, mixing the media with the amendments evenly throughout. Once done, the entire bin should look even in color and texture. Now start on one side of the bin again, using your hands go by section, churning the dirt all the way to the bottom. Overturn it until it appears homogenous, 4-6 full churns per section. At this point, even the surface again, add the other half of Black Gold Potting Soil base, and repeat the entire process, adding amendments, mixing lightly with fingers, then mixing deeper with hands. Once finished dive in! Play in the dirt as much as you want to mix the entire bin thoroughly! You are looking at your first batch of homemade, nutrient-enriched wonder soil!

For in-ground plantings, we modify the above soil recipe. Instead of Black Gold Organic Potting Soil as a base, we use the 30 quart (1 ft³) size of Black Gold Garden Soil. Black Gold Organic Potting Soil, though well worth it for containers, is expensive relative to other base mixes. As well, in-ground plantings already have a huge built-in nutrient resource--the ground! To create our in-ground mix we add 1/4 the amendment amounts above for perlite (2 c), coir (1 qt) and vermiculite (1 c). Additionally we add 2 qt earthworm castings, 4 qt compost, 1 c HCH fertilizer, 1 c Kelp meal, 1 c Alfalfa meal, 1 tbsp mycorrhizae and 1 tbsp Azomite. Additionally, depending on what we are growing, we may add 2 cups of composted cow or chicken manure.

Vegetables in containers have a mix too, our veggie mix. Tomatoes and peppers are a passion at HandCrafted Horticulture. In San Francisco, 21 varieties of tomatoes, heirlooms to cherry, and 16 varieties of pepper, have thrived in this soil, from seed to highly productive mega-vines and plants. To prepare our veggie mix we go through the same process for our workhorse mix above, except when mixing layers we add 12 qt of compost (compost link here) rather than 8 qt, 4 c HCH fertilizer rather than 3 c, 2 c Kelp meal rather than 1 c, and 1.5 c Alfalfa meal rather than 1/2 c. Additionally we mix in 1 c Fish bone meal (DTE), 1/2 c Oyster shell (DTE) and 2 qt of composted cow or chicken manure.

Finally, we have our seedling mix. Check out our "Growing from Seed" section for this recipe (INSERT link here).

These mixes constitute the basis for our success. We can help anyone do this. A point to remember, some plants thrive with larger quantities of certain nutrients than our prepared soil mixes provide. Bone meal or oyster shell for tomatoes for instance. When you repot these plants, put these additional nutrients in the soil in the container and mix it in lightly. Do not compact the soil.

Additional topics for this section:
-Container vs in-ground, goes here
-Planting transplanting repotting -- NEW SECTION
-Soil is where beneficial organisms live to facilitate plant functions, goes here
-GOES HERE / storyboard now
Friability, components/amendments, making your own soil, peat moss, perlite, coir, earthworm castings, fertilizer, vermiculite, sand, forest compost, homemade compost, bio-active additions. Specialty mixes for plant types, cacti/succulents, orchids, bog plants, ferns.
Understanding labels, aeration, root development, nutrient storage, retention, and transport, soil's part in the pathway and plant uptake of water, pH, acids/organics, living soil, promoting healthy soil organisms, physical plant support (here)/

Let's begin discussing nutrients and fertilizers with a fundamental distinction that frequently necessitates clarification: use of the words organic and inorganic. It is important that a gardener has basic knowledge of these words in a horticultural sense, and how that differs from their use in other areas or aspects of life. The distinction between organic and inorganic is simple, but complicated because the word "organic" is applied to many tangential or unrelated areas in society. For example, an organic corporate culture, which is an understandable concept in that arena. Most commonly it is applied to food, as in "organic food" from the grocery store, technically a misnomer. In horticulture all food is organic, meaning it contains carbon. Rather, organic in the food industry, in its best iteration, means the food was grown organically, using organic methods, nutrients and soil amendments in a natural way. Also, it usually means commercial, human-engineered pesticides, herbicides and fungicides were not used at any point during farming. Only natural methods are employed, with no notable adverse effects. In horticulture, more specifically, organic refers to any soil amendment or nutrient additive containing the element carbon, and at least one carbon-hydrogen bond. As well, this means at some point it or some part of it was alive. For all living things, fauna, flora and fungi, carbon is the backbone of life. Throughout Earth's history all life has contained carbon, and the remains of any life that ever lived will contain carbon.

Inorganic compounds on the other hand, do not contain carbon, with a carbon-hydrogen bond present. There are only a handful of compounds that contain carbon but are inorganic. A pivotal example in our case is carbon dioxide (note, no carbon-hydrogen bond present). Another defining characteristic of inorganic compounds is that they were never alive. Minerals and metals are good examples. These compounds mainly come from the weathering and degradation of rock over time. The fine product of this weathering is categorized into three particles: sand, silt and clay, respectively smaller in particle size. As well, in society there is little commercial or widespread use of the word inorganic outside science and horticulture. So unlike organic, there is less chance of confusing it with other societal applications. It's not popular to describe things inorganically! Though all life is organic, life could not exist without the nutrients provided by inorganic elements and compounds. They facilitate plant metabolic processes.

Seventeen elements are required to some degree for most healthy productive plants. There are many more elements but these are the main ones involved in sustaining flora. They vary in importance and abundance, hence they are classified as macronutrients (9) and micronutrients (8). You may also see them classified into 3 categories: macronutrients (6), micronutrients (3) and trace elements (8). For our purposes, we will use the first classification system, so the 9 macronutrients are carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulphur. The remaining 8 micronutrients/trace elements, are boron, chlorine, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, nickel and zinc.

The first 3 macronutrients could be referred to as meganutrients because they are the most prevalent elements in any plant. Carbon, hydrogen and oxygen surround plants and don't need to be provided by the gardener, per se. Plants get carbon, their most abundant element, from air as CO2. Hydrogen and oxygen are next in abundance and they arrive as water or CO2. When we refer to supplemental plant nutrients going forward, we are not referring to these 3 elements since they are not necessarily provided by the gardener. 

The next 3 macronutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, familiar to most people as the N-P-K value on fertilizers. They dominate the nutrient landscape for many people due to their omnipresence in fertilizer preparations. They are followed by calcium, magnesium and sulphur. Not as prevalent as N-P-K, they are vital for metabolic functions, overall health and longevity. Though all macronutrients and micronutrients are essential to healthy plants, some have a greater impact than others. Nutrient uptake, transport, and storage, along with processes like photosynthesis, respiration and transpiration rely on these elements. Deficiencies of any one can cause distinctive symptoms that can be used to identify the problem.

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Additional topics for this section:

minerals, liquid vs. dry, methods of application, composted raw sources like chicken/cow manures. An organic source for every nutrient a plant will need to thrive.

Bedrock of productive healthy new soil, nutrients NPK, magnesium, calcium, other macronutrients and micronutrients, their importance for every stage of a plant life cycle.
How to create your own fertilizer blend, composting issues with nutrients, dosing, common plant issues/signs of over or under fertilizing, symptoms, steps to correct it.

Without light, life as we know it would not exist. Everything Earth's carbon-based ecosystem requires for survival is powered by light, specifically sun light. Plants evolved using the energy generated by our Sun in more efficient and effective ways well over 3 billion years ago. Modern plants require light, water and carbon dioxide to live, along with many other nutrients (INSERT nutrient section link here). Understanding the connection between light and the plant kingdom's evolution to harness its energy provides insight for a gardener who wants to dig a little deeper into the science of gardening. Let's begin by reviewing the basics of photosynthesis, without diving too much into more technical aspects of lighting like spectrums, wattage and sources. It is a true miracle of nature.

Photosynthesis evolved billions of years ago, as bacteria began to utilize oxygen as a power source, and the evolution of chloroplasts and chlorophyll began. An awareness of this process gives the gardener deeper knowledge of mineral and nutrient needs, and how they are used by the plant. With that wisdom, you can tweak fertilizer blends and observe what happens over time. Think of the human body. You know what you eat and what your body needs to survive, the sustenance and nutrients, organic and inorganic. You keep it functioning every day. A plant is no different. Adding mass requires resources, therefore nutrients are depleted as it grows. Soil becomes barren if left unnourished. Many of the key nutrients plants require to photosynthesize efficiently must be replenished.

During photosynthesis plants turn inorganic carbon into organic carbon, a process referred to as carbon fixation, thereby creating the backbone of life on Earth, which we discuss here (INSERT nutrient section link here). They intake carbon dioxide (inorganic) and water to fabricate glucose (organic) and oxygen. This ability coincided with the evolution of the chloroplast and chlorophyll. Think of a chloroplast as a plant organ which contains the chlorophyll pigments where the process of photosynthesis occurs. Within a chloroplast, through a series of chemical pathways, light energy is converted to chemical energy which is then used to convert carbon dioxide and water into sugar and oxygen. There are other by-products of photosynthesis as well, like starch, amino acids, cellulose, sucrose and fatty acids.

Enzymes, cofactors and other organic compounds are required for photosynthesis to run smoothly, where electrons are transferred, while oxygen is removed from water and glucose is created. Availability of these critical compounds is essential, and they are created with nutrients, minerals and metals the gardener provides, like magnesium, potassium, phosphorus, etc. Recognize those?

Now with a photosynthesis primer under our belts, let's talk about how we can quantify and measure light. A light meter that measures in LUX or lumen, is a useful inexpensive gardner tool. Understanding the amount of light reaching a plant is the crux of what you need to know in terms of providing light's life-giving energy. Every plant has an ideal light requirement which we will loosely refer to as intensity, usually expressed as LUX or lumen, or more recently as the PAR rating.

Let's start with LUX and lumen. Lumen measures the intensity of light output. LUX measures the intensity of light output over a given area. One LUX is one lumen over one square meter, one one one. With this knowledge, this link is for a lumen/LUX conversion calculator (INSERT external link here). For simplicity, from here on, we will refer to lighting needs for plants by LUX. For example, most shade plants excel with 500-1500 LUX, and no direct sunlight. Semi-shade plants do best with 2000-5000 LUX, and some can receive minimal direct sunlight. Many sun-loving plants thrive with 10,000 LUX or higher, and can receive extended direct sunlight. Outside daylight can reach 15,000-25,000 LUX, and direct mid-day sun can be even higher.

This is where a LUX meter is handy. We use it to determine best placement for your plants, inside and outside. Use it by facing the light-catching surface of the meter directly toward the light source, whether artificial or sun. Now place the meter at the top of the plant, and note the reading. Then place it halfway down the plant, still facing toward the light source, and note that reading. This is another point where keeping a journal provides useful information for future reference (INSERT link to creating a journal in "Growing from Seed" section). Use these two readings, or more, as guideposts for high/low light levels for a given plant or area. They represent a snapshot of LUX received by the plant or the space. Sampling light intensity over a period of time, say a day, gives the gardener a good sense of whether a particular plant is receiving enough. Keep in mind, light intensity varies dramatically over the course of a year, season to season, peaking in summer and dwindling in winter. Therefore appropriate plant placement for photosynthetic needs may change during the year. This is especially true for indoor plants.

One more thing before we get into light spectrums and different lighting sources. Another reason plants require moisture for efficient photosynthesis to occur is because in hot dry environments leaf stomata may close. Stomata are tiny openings or pores in a leaf where gas exchange occurs. They are not visible to the eye, and need to remain open for carbon dioxide and oygen to efficiently transfer in and out. If water is in demand by a plant, it closes stomata to conserve it. When this happens, photosynthesis becomes less efficient. Do you wonder how cacti and succulents can live in harsh arid climates? Their stomata close during the day when they photosynthesize, and open at night when they exchange gases. Thus their version of photosynthesis, known as CAM photosynthesis, has adapted. The significant point is that providing appropriate water and not allowing plants to wilt and dry out affects their photosynthetic efficiency, thereby positively impacting overall vigor and health. This is also true for many other water-dependent metabolic plant processes.

Now onto spectrums and light sourcing.

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Additional topics for this section:
Artificial vs. natural, shade vs. sun exposure and their variations, light spectrum and color, comparison of units (PAR, PPF, PPFD, LUX, Lumen, wattage), seasonal cycles